Month: August 2022

The participants were:

Leanne Cullen (IBEAM Fashion) and Daisy Riley (Monozygotics) – plus myself, contributing to the discussion as a fashion writer (& MA researcher). Leanne and Daisy are both emerging fashion designers, and both created ethical and sustainable brands.

At the beginning, I asked them to talk about the challenges they individually faced when they first set up their businesses, and it was interesting to see how many similarities there were between their journeys. Also, I noticed how both of them mentioned the importance of finding like-minded people to work with, in terms of what platforms their works will be featured on, who helps them with marketing, filming, etc.

We also discussed the present and future of retail, which was an occasion for me to share what I’ve discovered so far by researching this topic. Some important themes emerged, such as: the importance of building credibility, lack of resources, lack of platforms to learn about opportunities, and overall not a lot of support for emerging designers.

There were supposed to be other people present, including two other fashion writers. This is something I need to keep in mind when organising the next one: I will need to make sure to invite fashion professionals from all areas of the industry. So also make-up artists, for instance, as well as photographers, stylists, etc.

Something interesting that came up: I asked if there currently are any alternatives to Fashion Week, designed specifically for emerging designers, and Daisy mentioned Undiscovered (see previous post). Leanne had not heard about it, so she shared the link with her.

Daisy mentioned Undiscovered as a good opportunity for small brands – basically a series of fashion shows for emerging designers. They take care of everything, finding models, make-up artists, etc, and it’s much cheaper than fashion week. Leanne didn’t know about it but is now considering applying too.

(online, August 23rd, 5pm-6/6.30pm)

Attendees:

1. Intro, around 5-10min: attendees to introduce themselves and their businesses/creative practices;
2. Intro, around 5-10min: explain project, state purpose of event;
3. Start conversation 30-40min;                                                              
4. Final comments, conclusions, thanks and goodbyes, 5-10min.

Some questions/topics:

• When did you first realize you wanted to pursue a career as a designer? Could you define the role of a fashion designer? 
• What challenges did you first encounter and did anyone help you during that first phase? And what made you want to pursue this career, despite those initial challenges?
• What are your thoughts about fashion week?
• How do you get unstuck creatively?
• Networking – what works for you, what doesn’t?
• Retail spaces in London & Opportunties; 
• “Traceability is, then, not only knowing the supply chain but also communicating that chain to consumers”  – what do you make of this?
• Post-pandemic present and future of fashion.   

In addition, ahead of the meeting, I also found it helpful to reflect on the following “Business Questions” from a case study on sustainable brand Alabama Chanin:

“The following questions address the need for developing a business proposal for the creation of a new sustainable apparel company that follows the principles of local, light, traceable, and one of the UN SDGs.

1. Local: How can a business implement local into the supply chain and production model? How can decent work and economic growth be implemented into the business plan or proposal?

2. Light: How can a business be “light”? How will responsible production and consumption be implemented into a business plan or proposal? How does Alabama Chanin communicate their sustainability credentials through their website and social media outlets?

3. Traceable: What methods of traceability can be implemented? How can the supply chain from cradle to cradle, the entire life cycle of the product, be traced?

4.Most important to plan: Which of these elements, “local,” “light,” or “traceability,” should be primary in or central to a business proposal?

5. UN SDGs: How can a business specifically address the UN goals, “peace and prosperity for people and How does Alabama Chanin implement traceable, light, local production and what United Nations Sustainable Development Goals does it follow?”

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Thinking about and planning this intervention has helped me define my research and focus for the following months. What I want to achieve, who I want to help, and who is involved.

I intend to help emerging designers and fashion professionals network, meeting each other in more fun and casual settings. Creating safe, joyful and empowering spaces for people who are just starting out, and need a support network/fellow creatives to talk to, share experiences, give advice to, etc.

I’ve realised that all the contacts I have made so far as a fashion writer – the people I invited to my upcoming intervention, for instance – I met by going to various events. These interventions, in fact, would also help me build my writing portfolio, by allowing me to meet designers I could interview, or fashion editors I could pitch my ideas to.

Furthermore, I can do all this whilst activating retail spaces, as it was my initial plan. The main difference is that the focus is now on the purpose of these events, rather than the fact they’re taking place in retail shops.

In the future, possibly after the course, I envision Controra Fashion Club as a platform for emerging fashion creatives. A website + social media pages + Discord. Monthly in-person and online events. Creating a fashion community, whilst activating spaces.

The next step, after my upcoming intervention (online event for fashion professionals), will be an in-person event. Once back in London, I want to go to Paper Dress Vintage (a vintage shop during the day and a club after dark), to discuss my project and whether they’d like to get involved.

As a second intervention, and result of the resarch I’ve been doing so far, I am planning an online event (seminar) for emerging designers that will take place next week, on Tuesday (August 23rd) between 5pm and 6pm. The purpose of this event is for emerging designers and young entrepreneurs to meet each other and discuss the joys and pains of setting up a business, plus what opportunities exist out there that some might know about and others might not.

The invitees are:

IBEAM Fashion (Ibeam and Leanne) – focus on sustainability and ethical luxury;

by KK Fashion (Kate) – focus on sustainability and customer experience;

Monozygotic (Daisy) – focus on sustainability and inclusivity;

Exidermis (Ester) – an upcycling project, with unique pieces, focus on individuality and storytelling through clothes.

Aniela Fidler Wieruszewska – a fashion creative who works for the Centre for Sustainable Fashion.

Special guests will be Keri, a fashion journalist and editor who also came to my first intervention (upcycling workshop), and journalist and fashion expert Cecilia Mezzi.

I will update after the intervention, reflecting on outcomes and everything that will be brought up during the discussion.

I have been a fan of this company for a while, not only for the quality of the products they sell, but also for their approach to fashion: slow, sustainable, and community-oriented. For instance, back in May I attended their New Designer Party, where I met two lovely emerging designers who I ended up interviewing (https://tomes.vague.digital/presents/voices-ibeam-fashion).

I am currently still in touch with them and we plan on doing more creative projects together. I also asked them what kind of event (as in events I envision taking place in a retail space) they’d like to attend, and they said that it would indeed be beneficial to them to be in a space where they can meet other emerging designers and potential customers.

I am attending another event in September, called HOOP STATION: “During this exclusive event, guests will get a sneak-peek of the new collection from THE HOOP STATION and meet the boutique label’s CEO in person.”

I like the idea of a CEO meeting their customers in person, giving them advice and showcasing their products. To me it shows true passion and love for one’s craft, and willingness to go that extra mile.

On August 1st I went to two shops that I had previously researched and liked as they had all the retail elements I’m looking for (one I had also emailed a few weeks ago but did not hear back). I also contacted an emerging designer who I’m going to talk to and potentially collaborate with. 

Luna & Curious: a small boutique in East London founded by three creatives, selling only small, independent brands (fashion and home wear) in a colourful, well-curated and cosy space. I particularly like that they introduce new emerging designers regularly. The owners weren’t there but I talked to the shop assistants who took my contact details and said they’d tell their employers to reply to my previous email. 

Couture Collective – Independent Creatives: a small shop in West London. Founded and curated by emerging designers, who also make their garments in a space located within the shop itself. The lovely lady who was working there when I went is one of the designers and showed enthusiasm about my project. She told me about the Zero-Emissions Arts Market, London’s first zero-emissions market, launched earlier this year by the Hammersmith council to help emerging designers in an eco-friendly way/space. The designer said it was a cool event, and the council even sent people in electric cars to pick up the garments that she was going to be selling at her stall (as she doesn’t drive). However, she also pointed out that sadly not many people were there – which made me think maybe not many people knew about it? She also told me that, after a good period for sales post-pandemic, sales have slowed down now both in store and online. As I was leaving she gave me her business card as well as another designer’s, and said to get in touch, which I will definitely do. 

By KK: I also contacted an emerging designer, Kate, who I met personally and purchased from. I admire her work ethic and the fact that she personally delivers the garments when a customer asks for a free fitting (like I did) and just seems genuinely passionate about fashion – slow fashion that is also affordable. She said she’s happy to talk to me, so we’re scheduling a phone call to talk about her business and what she thinks she needs at the moment to grow and thrive. 

I’m thinking that that’s what I should be focusing on in the next phase of my research: how can I champion and connect all these creatives, with each other and potential customers? It’s becoming clear to me that there are many opportunities out there and events that some small brands don’t even know about – they should focus on creating and coming up with new design ideas, whilst someone else thinks about the more social and event-planning side of running a small business. And this is where even activation comes into play, and could be a way for them to reimagine their own brands or simply find new ways to reach out to the outside world, that is often perceived as an overwhelmingly rich tapestry to unthread. 

Could I be the un-threader?